Guide to Use Autofocus System on Digital Camera

Autofocus on Intelligent camera lens continue focus on the subject you shoot, and can mean the difference between a pointy and a missed opportunity. Once you do lots of action photography it is best to find out each nuance of your autofocus system. then This tutorial gonna explain guide to supposed to work autofocus on your digital camera.

On 1985 Minolta launch first autofocus SLR camera and have become a revolutionized the world of photography - the Maxxum 7000, except for a short period of time. At that time my eyes were faster and additional accurate than the combination of camera and lens as possible. fast forward to 2012 and there's no method I could return to manual focus. however despite the wonderful advances in today's bodies and lenses, several photographers don't recognize all AF functions to take advantage of current models. I do lots of action and bird photography therefore it was for me to find out all the nuances of my autofocus system. read on to get the most effective of you.

Set the right point of focus:

There is alittle square which is the active focus point within the viewfinder. In most cameras, after you press the shutter button and move the switch on the rear of the body, the point of focus to be moved. E 'is imperative that this approach is that the focal point of the subject, particularly if it's to work in low lightweight conditions with the goal wide open. as an example, if you're writing an image of a pregnant lady and also the centrality of the abdomen, is likely to face to the depth of field when the lens is open. Shift attention from his face and the fire. Ever mindful of the focal plane to be crucial and move the focus point  to that location.

Continuous or single

Several cameras provide a possibility for the user to override the autofocus system if the image isn't focus. it's a continuous release / power / release priority etc - depends on the brand cameras you've got. Continuous mode works well in subjects moving erratically within the viewfinder. i use it all the time, if you shoot at any moving object. the idea is, though you'll get blurry pictures is the autofocus system in step with the movement and sharp pictures. the choice could be a single mode if allowe shutter speed when the camera detect sharp focus. If the subject doesn't move, it works fine. All of my image for portraits and wedding during this mode. within the case of a single mode, the camera determines if the shutter can be released and in Continuous the photographer overrides the decision of the camera.

Start Far and Let it Happen

If the action is delivered to you on this subject, block onto the subject it’s far away. In continuous mode the camera will follow the speed with which the subject moves to "learn" and with their pace. As part widens taking in frame. don't stop till it's cropp important parts of the subject. I do that all the time when i am photographing birds in flight. If you recognize where the action is executed, focusing before  on an object at the same plane therefore the lens doesn’t have far to search when the subject appears.

The central AF point is the best

For action shots, always lock using the central AF point. however they're also in continuous mode and choose an average variety of ranges. the reason why the center is by far the foremost delicate point of the system. In continuous mode, since the subject is approximately, then I compose the image so that the subject isn't dead center within the frame. Beauty is usually "hands off" the tracking to different focus points whereas I recompose the subject. It takes observe to do the recomposing, however it’s well worth the effort and result.

The limitation of the lens

A series of AF lenses have a Limit Focus. If you recognize the subject won't be in your area, make certain to set the target for the marker to infinity. the explanation for this is that when the subject is out of focus whereas tracing, unnecessarily attempt the  entire range of AF lens system. as a results of relocking the new one is far more efficient. The AF switch is sometimes found on giant telephoto lenses.

Turn Off Stabilization

Image stabilization work excellent when it's required, however several photographers who have it all the time. you do not need all the time for two reasons:

a) if the action is triggered, you may use a fast shutter speed. The shutter speed causes every camera movement. All it does is through gyroscopes and eats the battery.

b) The image stabilization system can slow down the AF a little. "If the action is moving fast, i need the AF horsepower I can get so I leave it off.

Integrating the above techniques in your workflow and look forward to many additional keepers within the future.

Article Resource : http://www.takegreatpictures.com/

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Guide to Extreme Shallow Depth of Field

 What Depth of Field is ?

DOF  or depth of field  is an abbreviation for an outline of what proportion of your image is in focus. A depth of field means simply that a specific area of the image is tack sharp, whereas different parts stay unclear.

Depth of Field in your Photographs

One of the most uses of degrees of freedom is to focus on the topic, reducing the impact of disorder of the bottom annoying. These may also be used in the majority types of photography, portraits, sports, photojournalism, close to macro and use of all the shallow DOF. Personally i prefer the effect, such that nearly never take an image that doesn't use some kind ofthis method. the essential rule is that if you wish look great, use shallow depth of field .

Get Shallow Depth of Field

To get a Shallow Depth of Field  is to set the f-stop as small as possible. the smaller the aperture f-stop will be greater, the larger the aperture the background will appear blurred, so the best way to shallow dof by starting at the lowest f-stop. began by experimenting on the f-stop is by putting the lowest f-stop, then take a picture, then raise one stop, and take a picture again, then you can compare the results, the experiment will facilitate you to understand the Shallow Depth of Field . other things that influential is the ISO, the higher, the lower the depth of field  on the image, so it set the ISO as small as possible, in this case the aperture is the most important thing to be set.  

Use  Shallow Depth of Field

The most common and easy way to use shallow depth of field  is bring the foreground part into focus and blur the background. a nice example of this can be the image below.

Whereas the vast majority of the image is out of focus you are eyes are immediately drawn to our webbed friend. If our background were in sharp focus he would be immediately lost within the background. after all every photograph is completely different for each scenario however the essential plan is to get all or most of your subject in focus and the maximum amount of your background out of focus as possible. now there are cases where you simply wish to isolate a particular part of your subject to bring importance to it as within the 2nd image to the correct. during this example the area of focus is the sharp looking edge of the flower, at the same time the main body remains blurred.

This brings immediate attention of your viewer to the part we want to indicate, the sharp edge in this case. you can realize as time goes on that you will get better at identifying when to use DOF and how much to use it. keep in mind if overused it will distract from the whole image, you do not need a complete blur. Another less common use for shallow Depth of Field is to own part of the foreground out of focus, then sharp subject, then out of focus background. this can be one of the most effective techniques if used properly. The result it gives is one of clear separation between the elements of the photo and when interpreted by the mind it really adds to the realism of your two dimensional photograph.

Shallow Depth of Field in Photojournalism and Portrait

Portrait photography and photojournalism are some of the major styles of photography you want to use shallow Depth of Field . This is a useful tool for telling stories and, as in all other uses, which draws attention to the desired position. Imagine a natural environment where a person chooses a river, sniffing with a smile on his face as a kid. It may have little depth of field in many ways to use here, and it is likely that both the flower and some or most of the face in focus, for example, 2/3rds of a look. This effectively says, "Hey, put your attention on the interaction, forget the rest.Another way would be to move the only flower in the center and let the person as a blur in the background, probably a nearly opposite straight. the example is that of an abstract and artistic history. a final interpretation might be to put an end to the flower in the foreground and the feeling that the person is experiencing. This lends itself to a ratio of image interpretation.

Shallow Depth of Field in Abstract Photography

An important aspect of the applications may be blurred or surreal. With a goal of good quality and an eye for art in nature, you can really find a way to distort reality and put your mind in the picture. I do not go too deep, because this is the area where you should determine what is happening. Some techniques are only elements combine to present a sort of photographic oil painting as an example the picture on the right side. You also get a good effect for high-contrast patterns in the background, like sunlight through the leaves with a fast track in the foreground as a flower or a super-model in the way you like.

During your experience in photography you will presented with many tools and techniques to tell your stories. Although it is not the only way to tell a story, I think you will find that the depth of field is one of the most useful techniques you really need for almost style in photography.

Related Article :

• How to control Depth of Field  
• How to Create Realistic Depth of Field in Photoshop

Article from http://www.emmettlollis.com/

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How To Capture Fall Colors

Colors in potography will make the image brighter and more alive, thats a reason for many photographer still waiting to capture fall colors becomes a very colorful picture.

For maximum results, there some techniques and practices to capture fall colors look charming. following article will explain tips on autumn colours , accompanied by examples of images that can be your inspiration.

Planning for fall color

The first factor you would like to do is set up your location. If travelling domestically, you've got the advantage of visiting the place more and more. If you travel abroad or cross-country, however, then you may need some plane before departure some best locations to go to for call colors and therefore the best time inside the autumn season.

Other factor you have to recollect is weather condition. Going to rain for the whole day is pointless to go . if you're planning for capture a sunrise or sunset, you need to remember times for sunrise and sunset. arrange your trip carefully and everything going to work simply fine.

Time when capture

You may hear several photographers saying that the most effective time of day is around sunrise, others like sunset. the actual fact is that the vast majority will visit throughout the day.

For times, there is no rule for that  to capture fall colors. throughout the first morning hours, you're a lot of lucky with mist. during sunset you may probably experience beautiful aspect lighting and during the day, lightweight beams in a forest returning from above or gorgeous subtle light during a cloudy day. the selection is yours to be there on no matter time you want. One issue is definite, select the situation carefully and you'rein for an enormous surprise.

Equipment nou may need

You don't need an upscale camera and lens, simply the one you own can do the work nicely. Our recommendation would be to use some of the following equipment to capture fall colors:

• Tripod: If in the woods, you are more likely to experience slow shutter speeds in which case, a tripod will be a necessity. Is that the only reason? Of course not. A tripod will slow you down and this in return, will greatly help with your compositions. Slow down and think about your compositions and take your time to make sure they are all spot on.

• Circular Polarizing Filter: This is the best filter you will need for capturing Autumn colours. It will not only supply your images with vibrant colours, it will also take away any glare from wet surfaces.

• Umbrella: This will come in handy not just in case it rains but also in the case you need to diffuse the light off a small area.

• Padded mat: Remember that you might have to spend time on your knees, this will offer some comfort and extend shooting times.

• Macro Lens: If you own one, it can come in very handy as there is plenty of close up photography to be had.

What to shoot and what to look for:

Here we have added a list of things to look for, accompanied with some lovely images.

Compose so that the surrounding areas / background are darker and/or dissimilar colors, so that the fall colors really stand out.

Aspens And Other Trees

A stand of Aspens is always a delight to photograph, especially when they are bathed with golden early morning or late evening light. Also, Aspen leaves offer one of the most stunning colour in nature’s palette.

Solitary Trees

Solitary or stand alone trees can be a superb subject as they provide you with an almost blank canvas full of colour. Make sure you allow for enough breathing space around the tree in the frame. Their colour works well in combination with green grass and blue sky. (Related Article :Tree Photography Techniques)

Stormy Weather

Keep an eye on these sudden stormy patterns in weather. They do not only bring rain but also mood, stunning light changes, rainbows and many more surprises. (Related Article: How to Photograph in the Rain)

Hit The Floor

Get down low and put that ultra wide angle lens to test and of course, why not try a strange angle by using a fisheye lens? (Relate Article:Get Creative with a Fisheye Lens).

Combine Colours

Move closer or zoom in on those beautiful details. Combine colours, contrast, textures and patterns. (Related Article: Tips on photographing household objects).

Get Closer, Use A Macro Lens

Use macro lens you have in your bag and hasn’t been used for ages. Get in close and isolate your subject. Create a beautiful design and use shallow depth of field to emphasise details. (Related Article:Macro Photography, lets get started).

No Need To Go Far

Remember that some times, you do not have to go far to catch the Autumns colours, they can also be found in your house. We need to remember that many of us for any reason, can’t get out or not fully mobile. For all those people we have one word to say, improvise, create your own Autumn colours. You can pick up a leaf or two from the garden or even a bunch of things from the veg basket.

A Walk In The Park

Some times your local park can be a great source of inspiration as there is more than you think all around, all you need to do is open your eyes and start looking for various subjects like: Trees in a row, scattered leaves on the ground and so on.

Reflections

Many parks, woods, little forests or even out in the grand open spaces include some sort of pool, little lake or any other water feature. We should not forget the importance of water in Autumn colour photography and the amount of creativity it can offer. Even colour reflected can create stunning images, without the foliage being even seen.

Visit A Vineyard

Many of us live in countries that produce grapes and wine. Don’t forget to visit a vineyard near by, Autumn is the season for grape picking and human activity and colours are the order of the day.

Grand Vistas

And finally, we shouldn’t forget the grand vistas, the ones that every landscape photographer dreams and constantly talks about. Approach them with the same care that you would any other time of year.

Keep all this advice in mind, get out there and have fun.

Source Article and Images: http://landscapephotographymagazine.com

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Simplicity Way Capturing Maternity Photo

There is always a way to make maternity photos look beautiful and detailed though a simple manner, location, clothing, the results obtained can be kept in the exploration. maternity photos are very good to keep simple due to the mother look busy prepares a baby arrive so the time to produce an image are seen to be less remarkable or mother doesn't have more energy to stand up several hours in the shooting. The following article will explain simple ways to capture maternity photos.

The place to  capture maternity photo

Choose an outside location depend on how willing your expectant mum is on venturing out. Hiking out to a distant waterfall in the jungle could be out of the question! do you have a beach nearby? Or a pleasant neighborhood park? Even somewhere as easy because the brick wall of a house will create for an amazing outdoor venue with lots of texture and contrast. (read 10 Parks Photography tips from Ralph Lee Hopkins)

The client could be one who’s on doctor’s orders to remain in bed. Your location is currently chosen for you. you may feel ‘stuck’ creatively by being at someone’s home, however don’t let that get you down! There are several choices at hand.

Think about using the nursery or a pretty window on the landing. perhaps it’s their house that has the good brick wall! Or their garden, driveway, fountain, water feature, pond, library, kitchen.

Equipment you might need

Most of the time all a shoot like this involves is your camera and favorite portrait lens. If shooting inside, think about bringing your flash, atiny low spotlight (or use a lamp already at the house). If outside think about contemplate a reflector…and that’s about it really! clearly, don’t forget all of your back-up bits and bobs like a spare battery, next favorite lens, additional batteries for your flash, and all the rest.

The Outfit

This will possibly depend on what the mother feels most comfy in. you'll be able to after all make some suggestions! Dresses would appear the foremost feminine and depending on the material used can provide off totally different sentiments like romance, love, beauty, nurturing, etc. The manner dresses fall over the body shows the expectant form wonderfully and will flatter any figure.

The ther outfits would possibly  a men’s outsized shirt with buttons undone halfway right down to show belly. Or for a more elegant look come with piece of long cloth to drape over female form in varied ways. For more casual look, go along with a tube top or bikini top with unbuttoned pre-pregnancy jeans to indicate off belly’s size & contrast. place confidence in jeans and an easy tank top, placing color mixtures, stripes/dots or lingerie.

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Best Way to Understand Exposure and Histogram

For some experienced photographer, exsposure still to be a problem. exposure shown in the LCD screen is not an accurate indicator. Histogram is the only way to ensure this, the following article will try to understand the importance of the histogram by starting with the basics of exposure

Brightness can be adjusted on most cameras and its appear on LCD screen. when you adjusting the brightness with manual settings, this is because you can see firsthand the changes on the LCD screen, but this way is sometimes misleading when you think that your picture looks good, but the result is not.

The brightness of the LCD screen will more accurately reflect brightness of the photo if you select Auto. However, you still need to check the histogram.

Your Camera’s Meter

The first step to understanding exposure, and why your camera can get it wrong, is to learn how your camera’s exposure meter works. Once you understand the following three points, you will know why your camera’s meter can easily give the wrong reading:

1. No matter which camera you have, or which metering mode you use it in, the exposure sensor inside your camera is measuring light reflected from the subject.
2. Your camera expects the light reflected from the subject to average out to a mid-grey tone (also known as 18% grey).
3. If the light reflected from the subject doesn’t average out to mid-grey, your camera will get the exposure wrong. At this point you need to step in and override the camera’s settings.

What sort of subject matter will give a wrong exposure reading? Your camera essentially expects to see a mid-grey subject (once all the tones are averaged out), so anything that is predominantly light or dark in tone will make the camera give an incorrect reading.

Any subject that is white or black will give an incorrect exposure reading. But so will anything that is predominantly light or dark. Flowers are a common subject that cause difficulty, and so are portraits if your model is light skinned.

White, or light colored, subjects will make the camera underexpose. This is because the camera is returning a reading that makes the tones in the image average out to mid-grey.
Dark, or dark toned, subjects will make the camera overexpose. Again, the camera is returning a reading that makes the tones in the image average out to mid-grey.

Based on what you’ve just read, can you tell which of these two images of a white flower was taken with the camera’s suggested exposure settings? If you said the left hand photo, you were right.
Even with the camera set to evaluative metering (it’s most advanced metering mode) it still got it wrong.

That’s because the flower is white, but the camera is programmed to believe that everything it sees is mid-grey. It gives a reading that makes the flower grey, not white.

The right hand photo is correctly exposed. I had to override the camera’s settings to take this image.

Using the Histogram

One of the biggest benefits of digital cameras is that they give you instant feedback.When I was learning photography with a film camera, the best way to learn about exposure was with slide film. Exposure has to be very precise with slide film – just 1/3 stop more or less exposure can make a dramatic difference to the image.

With slide film, I had the choice between using Kodachrome, which took over a week to come back after being sent off to be processed, or E6 film, which took three or four days. Either way, it was a long wait to see if I had got the exposure correct.
Now, with digital cameras, all you need to do is look at the histogram. It’s quick, easy and makes learning much faster.

Check your camera’s instruction manual to see how to display the histogram when you playback your images. If your camera has the choice between a luminance histogram and color histograms, then the luminance histogram is the one you need.
The luminance histogram tells you two important things:

1. Whether the photo is underexposed or overexposed.
2. How many light, dark and mid-tones the photo has.

The luminance histogram is a bar graph with up to 256 bars pressed tightly together so that there are no gaps between. The bottom axis shows a range of 256 tones from pure black (on the far left) to pure white (on the far right). The left axis shows the number of pixels in the image that correspond to those tones. The higher the spikes, the more tones there are.

The image above shows how different parts of the histogram relate to the image. I’ve shown the image in black and white as that’s how the camera sees it when it generates the luminance histogram. It takes into account brightness values only and ignores the color.

Every photo has a histogram. Ideally, the histogram should fit within the span of the graph. It should slope down to meet the bottom axis and not be cut off on the right hand or left hand side.

I deliberately overexposed this photo to show you what happens. The histogram is cut off on the right hand side, indicating that the image is overexposed. Exposure needs to be reduced.

Here, my camera’s highlight alert shows the area that is overexposed. There is no detail here, these highlights are ‘clipped’. I might be able to pull some of that detail back in post-processing if I’m shooting Raw, but it’s better to get the exposure correct in the first place.

This screen grab shows an underexposed image. The histogram is cut off on the left-hand side, indicating that the photo is underexposed and that exposure needs to be increased. There will be no detail in the shadow areas.
Let’s take a look at the histograms for the photos of the white flower I showed you earlier:

I set my camera to evaluative metering, its most advanced metering mode, to take this photo. Even so, it still underexposed the white flower. The big gap on the right hand side of the histogram confirms this.

Here I used exposure compensation to override the camera’s meter and increase the exposure by two stops. The histogram has moved over to the right, and is nearly touching the right hand side, indicating that the exposure is correct.

What does the histogram for the above image tell us? You may think that the spike on the left shows the image is underexposed. But in reality the exposure is correct. A glance at the image itself tells us that there are lots of dark tones in the sky and the mountains. The spike in the histogram merely confirms that.

Exposure Compensation

Now that you can use the histogram to see if a photo is correctly exposed, you need to know what to do when it isn’t.

If you are using an automatic exposure mode, the easiest way is to use your camera’s exposure compensation function.

If you’re photographing a light subject and the photo is underexposed, increase exposure by a stop or two, then take another photo and check the histogram again to see if it’s correct.
The same applies, but in reverse, for dark subjects. The camera will tend to overexpose – use exposure compensation to underexpose by one or two stops to compensate.
Don’t forget to set the exposure compensation back to zero when you’re finished – otherwise your next set of photos may come out over or underexposed.

Creative Exercises

These exercises will help you put the lessons learnt today into practice:

Creative Exercise One:

Go back through the images saved on your camera’s memory card/s and look at the luminance histogram for each image. How do the tones in the image correspond to the spikes in the histogram? Do the histograms indicate underexposure or overexposure on any of the images?

Creative Exercise Two:

You can try this out for yourself. Take a photo of any white colored object. It could be a sheet of paper, a white wall, a white cup, or someone dressed in white. It doesn’t matter which exposure mode you use.

Look at the photo on your camera’s LCD screen. Are the white tones in the image white or grey? Look at the histogram. Is there a gap on the right hand side? Change the metering mode. Does this make a difference to the exposure reading your camera gives? Now use exposure compensation to increase the exposure. How many stops do you need to increase it by to get the correct exposure?

Now repeat the exercise with a black subject. Look for a black wall, a black car, a black cat – anything that’s black and repeat the experiment. What color is your subject when you playback the image – black or grey? Is there a gap on the left hand side of the histogram? How many stops of minus exposure compensation are required to obtain the correct exposure?
Try these tests in both direct sunlight and shade. The difference in results may surprise you.

Conclusion

By the time you’ve finished these two exercises you should have a good idea of the relationship between exposure and the histogram. You should also be able tell, if the exposure is incorrect, how much exposure compensation is required to rectify it.

Related Articles :

• Perfect Exposure using Histogram  

• Long Exposure Quick Reference  

• Exposure and Composition in BW

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What do you need to prepare Portrait Photography

What do you need to prepare Portrait Photography - Human face changes from time to time be a challenge for portrait photography, this  makes portrait phtotography initially starting difficult for some photographers.

Persistence and skill required to get the best moment. there are some basics and prepare the best that could be a reference to improve the quality of portrait phtotography significantly. below are some tips you need to considera to prepare for start portrait phtotography .

• Wear solid coloured clothing (patterns can be distracting or photograph poorly).
• V-neck tops or shirts with collars accentuate the neck (men with long, slim necks should wear crew neck or collared shirts that can be buttoned up).
• Don't wear turtle-necks unless you know that's the look you want. You could end up looking like a floating face.
• Take a couple of shirt options if you're unsure (one black, one white or light colour - different collar styles).
• Choose colours that compliment your skin tone.
• Long sleeves tend to be better than short sleeves or tank tops, unless you have killer, sexy arms.
• Your jacket, if you wear one, should contrast with your shirt.
• Ties should also contrast with shirts.
• Avoid ties with bold or loud patterns, unless, of course, that's the look you want.
• Don't over-do makeup or jewelry. The more subtle, the better.
• Wear make-up and jewelry that make you feel good. If you don't usually wear make-up, or it makes you feel awkward, don't wear it for your shoot.
• Avoid logos of any kind. This is a photo of you, not an ad for that company.
• Drink lots of water the day before and day of your shoot, eat a healthy, light meal before your shoot (this will help you look content and refreshed).
• Bring water with you to the shoot, especially if having your picture taken makes you nervous.
• If you're getting your hair cut, do it a week before your shoot so it has time to "settle."
• If you're getting a perm, do it two weeks before the shoot so it has time to relax.
• Bring a little make-up with you (if you wear it) for touch ups before/during the shoot.
• Think about what you want your photos to look like. Surf the web for portraits or head shots to get an idea of what's out there. Your photographer probably has their own ideas, but should be happy to hear yours as well.
• If you are nervous about having your photo taken, tell the photographer. They may have techniques to help you feel more comfortable.
• If you are nervous or don't like having your photo taken, feel free to bring a friend who can chat with you during the shoot. Not all photographers encourage this, but it can be a great way to stay relaxed.
• Don't be afraid to speak up if you aren't happy with how things are going. Feel free to make suggestions and ask questions.
• Show up prepared to relax and have fun. Even if the shoot is for a more subdued or serious commercial head shot, your sense of calm and happiness will make your photos more attractive.

People who see the portrait photo can deduce more than just a photo of their clay, the result picture should show mood, personality and character, so they can attract conclusions about the portrait photo on the serve.

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Urban Landscape Photography Tips for Novice

Urban Landscape Photography Tips for Novice - Views of the urban landscape has always been an interesting to photoraph.

The unique shape of the building and the people who perform certain activities are things that could be the subject of photography for experienced and novice photographer. here are some tips that that could be considered  to get a good picture of urban landscape.

Bring the Right Gear for Urban Photography

The effort for expensive photography equipment would'n be met for all photographers, but there some equipment that very helpfull to take pictures of the urban landscape.

• Tripod: helpfull to take pictures at night or for twilight
• Addition lens could be useful  to the specific picture such as a wide angle and zoom lens that useful to get a picture in a different dimension like detail or a wider pictur.

Pick a Focus

Every city is its own entity and conveys many different images. It is important to find those things which stand out to the photographer and resonate how they feel about the city they are capturing.
Panoramic shots can be great for showing the city in all its glory. Focusing on one particular architectural element can be a good way to create a set of photos. Cities all have their own unique architecture, from graveyards and churches to old buildings and skyscrapers. One should find the areas of the city with these elements, even if it takes a little bit of exploration.

Also, sometimes the people that walk through the city are as interesting at the city itself or more so. Businessmen on their way to work, kids hanging about idly or districts that cater to a counter-culture all make good subjects.

Choosing the Right Time

If one is looking to get quiet and clean photos of the city, the morning is the best time, since it is less busy. This is the prime time for doing architectural shots. When looking for a more active time, lunch hour or a busy Friday night will bring the people into the streets.
Bright, vibrant photos will require shooting when the sun is high, while times such as dawn or dusk have their own appeal. Ultimately, the best thing to do is to make time and spend an entire day shooting in order to get the widest variety of lighting.

Things to Keep in Mind

When looking for a good photo opportunity, there are some things to keep in mind regarding composition. By paying attention to one’s surroundings, a shot will often present itself by observing some basic rules of photography.

• Angles – Find new and interesting angles to use and take lots of pictures from many different angles.
• Contrast – Seek out contrasts in visual elements such as architecture styles, textures and colors.
• Theme – Pick a theme and photograph with that theme in mind to create a set of photos that work together.

Even when one does not know what they wish to photograph, being able to use these elements will produce good photos simply by their own virtues.

Be Creative and Be PatientNever be afraid to try things out and be experimental with photography. Even if unsure of a shot, take it anyway and take a dozen. Sometimes looking at photos later will reveal something interesting that one did not see at the time of the photograph’s taking and inspire them creatively.
Also, one should be prepared for a huge pile of photos that never quite work out. It pays to take more photos than one thinks is necessary, just in case a subtle variation in two similar shots makes the difference between mediocre and great. Photography is ultimately a learning process, and every photo, good or bad, has a lesson to teach.

Source Article : http://landscapephotographyblog.com/

Related Article :

• Street Photography : Amateur Beginer's Guide 
• 10 Tips for Urban Photography

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